MRA Editors

Bringing Layouts to Life with Detailed Modeling

MRA Editors
Duration:   8  mins

Model railroading is largely dependent upon the amount of effort and patience you are willing to show a layout. If you take the time to add small details that give touches of realism to your scenes, those scenes are going to come to life and grab and hold a viewer’s attention. With that in mind, we spend some time in this lesson teaching you how to take your new scene to the next level, paying close attention to the details and adding simple model railroad details that will make layouts truly pop!

Adding realistic model railroad stuff

To help you raise the reality of your layouts up a notch, modeler and artist Tom Lund demonstrates a variety of expert techniques and introduces model railroad items that you can utilize to grab a viewer’s focus and keep their eyes moving throughout your scene. He talks about several components of the scene, using model railroad stuff he typically opts for in his own scenes, from interior lighting and signs to street detailing and mini scenes.

First, Tom shows you how to take a portion of a street scene and add model railroad details that amplifies its reality. You’ll learn the best way to use styrene, tape, steel wool and various colors of spray paint to designate asphalt from sidewalk and sidewalk from driveway. Tom has done this process many many times, so he breezes through it, but he uses simple techniques and basic model railroad materials that modelers of any skill level should be able to replicate with ease.

Next, Tom zooms in on the buildings and street corners to walk you through the proper techniques for interior and exterior lighting, window and wall decorating and mini-scene creation. Your main goal with adding model railroad details such as traffic jams and bus stop conversations is to always seek realism. Make sure your vehicles are to scale with figurines and all signs are historically accurate and correctly weathered depending on location. Your other goal is to just have fun with it–see what model railroad stuff you can include in your scenes to make them as realistic as possible!

Share tips, start a discussion or ask other students a question. If you have a question for the instructor, please click here.

Make a comment:
characters remaining

2 Responses to “Bringing Layouts to Life with Detailed Modeling”

  1. JOHN

    Excellent! Lots of good tips.

  2. Kevin

    What thickness styrene does Tom find works best for the floor dividers?

It's all in the details. The people, the vehicles, the signs, and all the miscellaneous details all combine to make a really vibrant scene. Plus, it's really easy to do and fun. Here's a technique I find especially effective for city streets. It's styrene laminated to foam-core then layered up.

I use spray adhesive on the back of the styrene and adhere it to the foam-core. The next step is to adhere what is really the building foundation to the street. I use spray adhesive for this step also, because it covers a large area. I used 040 styrene for this step because it's the same thickness as the sidewalk I'm going to be adding, shortly. I'm going to score then snap the styrene sidewalk.

I use liquid cement to adhere the sidewalk to the street. The final step is to add the curbing. This is quarter-round styrene. I'll lay a bead of liquid cement then push the curb into place. I'll let that set a moment.

Now I scrape in the expansion joints. You can use a hobby knife or any sharp tool. I'm using an old dental tool. The first step in painting is to paint the street. I'll spray a little bit of yellow paint along that center line.

After the paint dries, we are going to mask that center line with some striping tape. This is eighth-inch. It's a little wide, but it seems to work pretty well. When I do streets, I use three colors. There's a lighter color for the sidewalk, a medium color for the road, and a darker for the driveway.

If I tape this right, I can leave the little apron on the street, on the curb and that's what I'm doing. I'm leaving just a little bit along there. Now I'll paint the sidewalk with the lightest of the grays. Finally, I'll tape that off and spray the darkest of the gray to represent the asphalt that the building sits upon. Now comes the fun part, peeling off the tape.

And now that the street's painted, let's weather it to really make it look realistic. The first thing I'll do is use a little steel wool to roughen up the street. I'll take some weathering chalk on my fingers. Here, I'm putting tire tracks on the street. And we soften it a little bit with the old toothbrush.

That finishes it. That was fun, easy, and very effective. Now that the streets and sidewalks are complete, the next part of detailing is the buildings. After your building is assembled, you'll need to paint it. I've painted this building in two-tone gray.

I sprayed the light gray and hand-painted the dark gray. And now I'm painting the window sills. Take your time, load up your brush, and let the paint flow into the grooves. After painting, I'll cut the floor and the roof. These buildings come with material for the roof, but I like to add floor dividers, that way, I can light one floor at a time and also add some interior building details.

The easiest way to cut your floor and roof the right size is to use the building as a template. The building doesn't always line up perfectly square so don't rely on your T-square. I've glued in some styrene supports to hold the floor in place, and I'm doing the same for the roof. Drop in the roof like so. Now hold it in place.

A little glue. The next step is to put in the windows. This kit came with clear acetate for windows. You can also buy pre-printed windows. I chose to use those on this kit.

They're pre-printed with dotted lines. Be sure to cut all the way through as the acetate tears very easily. Also be careful not to get glue on the windows. It's very visible. The pre-printed shades are nice.

I'm adding those to the upstairs. Lighting buildings adds another dimension. I don't care for the look of wires running through the middle of my buildings so I'll hide those in a cocktail straw. This light has an adhesive foam pad. I'll adhere it right to the bottom of the roof then I'll feed the wires through the straw.

I'll leave the roof removable, that way, I can add details later. Signs can be mounted on the walls, in windows, or over the door. Large, painted billboards like this are easy. I've found this old ad in a magazine. Just trim with a straight-edge and use a little spray adhesive to attach to your building.

Rooftop signs like this really add to a scene. I use the framework from a billboard kit and created this character by scanning and outputting onto adhesive back label stock. I applied that to styrene, then very carefully cut him out. Simple interior details are a worthy addition to those buildings in the foreground or buildings with large windows. Poster putty is a great way to add people to your town.

It allows you to move your people around and it's almost invisible. Group people in scenes. People chatting, people waiting for the bus together on a bus stop. When adding cars and trucks, make sure your vehicles are to the scale you're modeling. Oftentimes, the vehicles you pick up in the toy aisles are too big.

Make sure your vehicles fit the era that you're modeling. A few quality vehicles in the foreground are worth the additional cost. Now that the vehicles are in place, it's time to add the final details. I really enjoy this step because it really brings the scene to life. These streetlights come in two pieces.

Drill a hole for the base then the streetlight just pops right in. Add mailboxes, fire hydrants and the miscellaneous details that all help bring a scene to life. Adding this backdrop of building in front of your sky backdrop really adds a lot of depth to the scene of your city. The detailing of a city scene is very rewarding. It's a lot of fun, adds a lot of visual interest, and it really brings your layout to life.

Get exclusive premium content! Sign up for a membership now!